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TIPS
& ARTICLES
(Posted 11/18/2008)
Help Keep Your Dog Safe Through The Holidays
Here are some tips to insure a safe and happy holiday season.
Keep ornaments and other decorations out of your dog’s reach by placing them higher in the tree. If ornaments, garland, tinsel or lights are eaten by a dog, there is a potential for chocking or gastro-intestinal problems. Chewing on electrical cords can cause burns or electrocution. To prevent this, place electrical cords behind heavy furniture or cover them with rugs.
Holiday foods can also be a danger to your dog. Eating too much fatty food, such as turkey skin or meat trimmings can cause upset stomach, vomiting or diarrhea. Bones can be a choking hazard and can cause internal punctures. Chocolate can be dangerous. If eaten, it can cause tremors, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, even death. To prevent this, keep candy and cookies out of your dog’s reach.
Keep candles up high and never leave burning candles unattended.
Holiday plants such as holly, mistletoe and poinsettia can be poisonous to a dog if eaten. To discourage your dog from chewing on plants, keep them out of reach and/or spray leaves with Bitter Apple or Phooey spray.
There are dangers outside as well. Salt and ice melting chemicals that are used on sidewalks can burn your dog’s feet. If your dog licks his paws or eats these products vomiting and diarrhea can result. Antifreeze is extremely toxic. If you think your dog has ingested even a small amount, take him to a veterinarian immediately. The National Animal Poison Control Center can be reached 24 hours a day at 1-800-548-2423. Locally you can contact West Vet Animal Emergency and Specialty Center at 375-1600.
Protect your dog from your guests. Your holiday guests are well intentioned, but you must still watch out for your dog. They might feed him food that could make him sick (cookies, sausage, candy, ect.). Someone may leave the door open, allowing your dog to bolt outside and down the street. Always supervise young children around your dog and provide your dog with a quiet place to get away from the busy holiday activities.
Happy Holidays from The Dog House
(Posted 11/18/2008)
Treating Scratches and Cuts
The other day I noticed a couple of scratches on Max’s front leg. I made him lie down so I could examine them more closely. They were all pretty superficial…no cuts. I got a clean, damp rag and some Betadine solution from the medicine chest, along with some antibiotic ointment. After gently cleaning the wounds and patting off the excess moisture, I dabbed the antibiotic ointment on the scratches. Over the next few days, I reapplied ointment once or twice a day to keep the scratches clean and moist, which would promote healthier healing.
A true CUT is considerable more serious. When you observe lacerations on your pet, first stop the bleeding by applying pressure for a few minutes. If you are fairly close to a vet, transport the dog immediately and let the vet handle it from there. If timely veterinary treatment is not an option, flush the wound as best you can with plain water. Check for debris that may be in the wound, but do not probe excessively. Once the area is clean, gently pat dry and apply antibiotic ointment. Wrap securely (not tightly) with gauze, Vet Wrap or even a clean rag. Secure the bandage with adhesive tape if you have it. In an emergency, duct tape will work too. You’ll want to keep your dog quiet and out of the elements. Get to the vet as soon as you can. A deep laceration should be sutured to minimize risk of infection and scarring.
(Posted 11/18/2008)
TIPS FOR HOUSETRAINING A PUP
For many new puppy owners, housetraining proves to be the biggest challenge. But housetraining doesn’t need to be a big battle if you start immediately when you get your pup and work consistently, guiding him into good habits. Follow these tips and you’ll have your pup trained in no time.
PICK A SPOT Before you bring your pup home, decide where you want his bathroom area to be. Pick a spot that’s quick and easy to get to and has few exciting sights, sounds and smells. This way, you can take your pup to that spot quickly, and he won’t be distracted.
START IMMEDIATELY When you arrive home with your new puppy, immediately take him to his predetermined potty place. Stand there with him until he goes, praise him, and then let him sniff around for a few minutes so he can get familiar with it. If you take the puppy to the approved area before he enters your home for the first time, it will prevent an immediate accident and lay the groundwork for a positive habit.
GIVE HIM A MINUTE After your pup has used his bathroom area, allow him to remain there and sniff around a bit longer. Many pups will urinate more than once before finishing. Also, pups will often urinate, and then a few minutes later defecate. Once inside, watch him closely for another 10 minutes or so. Sometimes pups won’t quite finish the whole job while in their bathroom area. If you see this pattern, keep your pup in the area a little longer than you have been, so this kind of accident doesn’t reoccur.
KEEP ON TRACK Leash your puppy when you take him to the selected area. This helps keep him focused on the job at hand by preventing him from wandering off to explore or trying to go back inside. To keep your pup focused, limit these outings to going to the bathroom. He needs to know that potty time isn’t for playing or exploring the yard. If you allow him to explore and play, he will likely forget to go until he calms down—when he is back in the house.
ADD A CUE Teach your puppy a verbal cue, something like ”Go potty,” or “Get busy.” If your puppy knows a cue, you can tell him when and where to eliminate, whether at home or away. When your pup relives himself in the appropriate area, praise him and include his bathroom cue, for example, “Good go potty.” This will help him learn the cue. Praise calmly and quietly so you don’t excite him or he may stop midstream and not finish until back in the house.
GET THERE FIRST You need to take your puppy to his bathroom area immediately after he wakes, eats, drinks, plays and greets visitors or family. Pups under 12 weeks have very little time between these events and their need to go to the bathroom. Make meeting your pup’s needs at these times a high priority.
LET HIM RING Pups often have accidents simply because they don’t know how to tell you when they need to go out. Hang a bell on a sturdy cord from the door that leads to his bathroom area. Each time you take your pup outdoors to eliminate, ring the bell just before you open the door. He will associate the bell ringing with the door opening and will soon try it himself. It may take two days to two weeks for him to figure this out. When you do hear that bell ring, hurry to your pup and take him out immediately.
RESPECT DINNERTIME Feed your pup regularly scheduled meals, rather than leaving food out all the time. Eating on a fixed schedule tends to result in a regular elimination schedule. This will help you anticipate his potty needs and help him develop good habits. If he nibbles all day, he’ll go to the bathroom at unpredictable times.
DO NIGHT DUTY Many pups over 10 weeks can make it through eight nighttime hours without relieving themselves. But that assumes that you take your pup to his potty area right before you go to bed-even if you have to wake him-and first thing when he awakens in the morning. If the puppy has accidents during the night despite taking him out both late and early, set your alarm for 3 or 4 a.m. and take him out then.
CRATE HIM RIGHT When you must leave you pup unattended during the day for up to three hours or during the night, keep him safely out of trouble by bedding him down in his crate with an interesting chew toy. Puppies normally prefer not to eliminate where they sleep or eat, so most will not soil their crates. But give him ample opportunity to relieve himself before you put him in his crate. If your puppy does urinate of defecate in his crate that usually means he couldn’t wait any longer. Don’t get angry with him. Next time shorten the time you leave him in his crate. Keep a leash right next to your puppy’s crate so you can take him to his bathroom spot immediately upon awakening or when you return after an absence.
LEARN YOUR CUES As your puppy approaches 12 weeks of age, he’ll start to indicate that he needs to go to the bathroom. He may walk in a small circle, pace back and forth, sniff a spot where he’s eliminated before, look at the door, leave the room, or suddenly break off play and seem to search for something invisible. When your pup does any of these behaviors, immediately leash him and take him to his approved spot.
KEEP IT CLEAN Thoroughly clean up any accidents. Otherwise, the scent will entice your pup to eliminate there again. Use an enzyme-based cleaner or a solution made specifically for removing pet stains.
If you’re watchful and consistent, housetraining your pup will go quickly and smoothly. Keep paper towels and cleaner handy; you’ll need them at first. But soon your pup will learn there is a proper place to relieve himself and that you’ll help him get there in time.
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